@Skinnie
Hi,
If I was you I would start recording your usage and writing it down.
Not once a week but every day at the same time preferably.
If possible I would also do it twice a day once in the morning and once in the evening.
This gives you readings for overnight say 6pm till your morning read say 7am.
I have seen on these pages where a person in a flat was paying for the next door neighbours AC unit.
Smart meters (well most of them) have a little red light on them that flashes one thousand times for every kWh of usage.
So you look and see how fast this is flashing, more flashes more usage.
Older refrigeration devices are often a cause of high usage because as they run out gas they tend to short cycle (this where they spend more time running than shut down).
For fridges you can hear them quite easily and if you sit near them or close to you can hear them start / stop in short times. AC Refrigerated units are harder as you may not be able to hear the compressor starting due to the fan, but window mounted units can be checked via the Power Usage Meter method below .
FIRST CHECKING METHOD:
This requires the purchase (small cost) of a Mains Power Meter that measures the voltage, current, cycles and kWh's being drawn through the power point (these are really called GPO's or General Purpose Outlet) and other than switching off the GPO plugging in the Power Meter and the device under test, that is all that is required you can leave it plugged in forever, if you like, but normally a few hours is all that is required to see its consumption.
Remember, kWh are what you get charged for the lower the value the cheaper they are to run.
Then do this for every device that you normally have plugged in and don't forget things like Air Fryers that you use but do not have connected all the time. For appliances like toasters etc that you only use quickly, you don't have to check them as the use time is only a few minutes, but it may not hurt to do so.
Make sure you write down the results for each device.
If you are computer literate you may want to start a spreadsheet to keep the data and once a year you can go back and do it all again to see if usage is getting higher....
More info about power meters below
THE SECOND METHOD:
NOW IN THE CHECKING METHODS BELOW THESE ARE METHODS THAT CAN BE CARRIED OUT SAFELY BY A PERSON THAT FEELS CONFIDENT IN DOING SO.
IF YOU DO NOT FEEL CONFIDENT, DO NOT ATTEMPT TO DO ANY OF THE TASKS, GET A LICENCED PERSON OR A FRIEND THAT FEELS CONFIDENT, TO DO THE TASKS.
Now if you have solar this will mask your usage as any power generated will be consumed by the house, before going out the export side of the meter.
If doing the testing by Power Box Metering Test I would suggest that you turn off the Solar System using the instructions supplied in the Meter Box or next to the Solar Inverter.
If it is a House or Self Contained unit (ie a Power Box that controls only all your own power) what you can do is turn every thing off (at the power point for an hour or so during the day, read the meter first and then afterwards, before you turn it back on) and make sure that no power is being consumed during this period.
If you see a red light still flashing on the Power Meter that means power is still being consumed.
Now with every thing off and you are still consuming power then you may have to consider that the issue is a water heater or something in the shed etc.
If you see this is occurring you could then try turning off all the circuit breakers at the switch board, only do this if you feel safe doing so, as each BREAKER is turned off, check to see that no power is being consumed (the flashing light should go off) if it is you should read the meter and wait for an hour and then read the meter.
Please note that if you turn off the power for more than two hours you should turn it back for an hour or so to allow the Fridges and Freezers to get up to working temperature again, if you have not completed all off your testing. If fridges or freezers are still running after the rest period, please wait until you hear them all stop before commencing again.
If you turned off the solar to do this test, don't forget to turn the solar back on by carrying out the tasks listed in your meter box or next to your Solar Inverter.
OTHER TIPS:
By the way, remember that your Power Bill is your friend, if you have a Controlled Load (OFF PEAK tariff) and that is a major part off the bill you will need to have all the devices connected to this checked, this is not easily checked as they are normally hard wired and would require a Licenced Electrician to test them.
In most cases Electric Stoves and Hot Plates go faulty by the Elements Failing and you notice this as items take longer to heat up or do not heat at all.
Items like AC's and Fridges (see the above about short cycling) will require checking by a licenced Refrigeration Trades Person if found faulty.
Last thing you need to remember is that if you think your Power Meter is faulty, that it can cost up to $1000 to have the meter checked, if the meter is found to be OK then you have to pay the costs, if faulty you may get some refund from your retailer / supplier.
External units for AC units are normally hard wired so the only way you can check these is by turning every thing off by the switch on GPO's and then running the AC for an hour. (Read the Meter first, turn on for an hour, read the meter and then shut down)
I suggest if you are going to do this to make sure that the AC has been running for a while in the room before hand, if you just turn it on it will probably not cycle for at least two hours while it starts the cool or warm down cycle.
Talking about AC's, most people don't run them correctly. Think about a nice day outside, when its 20 degrees outside, you don't rush in and turn on the AC do you.
The recommended temp to run an AC is 22 degrees when heating or cooling every one degree above/ below that increase your power bill.
Don't forget in winter there is no reason that you cannot wear a light jumper indoors to save electricity.
Ceiling fans can be of good benefit in both Winter and Summer to better circulate air and your fans may have a summer / winter switch fitted.
POWER USAGE METERS:
Jaycar sell one https://www.jaycar.com.au/mains-power-meter/p/MS6115 for about $20
Bunning's sells one that looks identical Power Usage Meter but theirs is $35.68
Both of the above do contain battery backup.
Of course good old eBay had 154 listings (Aust only stock), in fact I just brought a packet of four for $42 ($10.50 each) even though I already have one which I purchased a few years ago, while researching these devices for this reply.
I don't need to have battery backup (some do) and they will keep your data in a power failure or move to another socket. The handy thing about no battery is that you don't have to reset the figures each time.
Don't even bother to set the price when I use mine as reading the kWh is all you really need as that is what you are charged in.
Just remember that the maximum current draw from a normal household socket (GPO or General Purpose Outlet) is supposed to be 10A and most of the Power Usage Meter are limited to that maximum and will fail if you overload them.
Hope this all helps
Cheers Neil
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