Solar feed in loss and discrepancy

[BridgetC]

So we've just built a house, than added solar.

There was 10 days where we fed in to the grid a decent amount with no credit.

We have a brand new meter and nothing was done to it, no visit required but magically after 10 days we started getting credit, however it seems to be not counting all that we're feeding in to the grid.  I have read that there's a limit of 10 kWh per phase, we have two phases and two inverters, so we should be able to feed in 20 kWh easy on a clear day in summer.

I've posted the only not estimated day on the AGL tracking, but all days are similarly skewed.

This looks to me like we generated 60, used 27 ourselves and fed in 33.1

 

However AGL only gives us credit for 13.  The amount we bought from the grid is close enough to a match.

 

Every day the amount we are feeding in seems to be significantly more than were given credit for, in addition to the 10 days of no credit at all.

If I can supply AGL my inverter info, can I get the right amount of credit applied back to when the solar panels started feeding in to the grid?

Does AGL just get free solar from everyone for 10 days and then sell that to other people?  Does everyone get massively short changed for their feed in to the grid too?

This is not a small amount when added up, especially when the data is clearly captured.  There's a word for taking something without paying for it, and then selling it.

[Lester]

Bridget, I too just went solar recently, on our 3 phase had 2 x 5kw inverters on each of 2 phases.

Yes, the first 10 days or so before metering finalised was nil feed in, but the (new digital) meter seemed to just stop input on what was put out of the system in total, more or less like winding back an old analogue meter if hooked up same.

(This is actually a much better deal for that time, vs feed in.)

I would go back to the solar installer, and ask them to check their wiring.

They installed it, they should make sure it's functioning as it should, show them the data you have and ask.

When mine did our install, they wired up one phase in part of the system instead of for 2 phases, and it was garbage out for 10 days or so, probably my main problem with nil meter readings for the start.

What size system did you get ?

We are putting out 70kwh (11.23kw optimised SolarEdge) or a little more in first of good summer sun through late Nov - Dec, now it's dropped to 50 - 55 a day.

Cloudy / rainy days it will drop much more.

Not sure where you are, but in most states it really is a case of low feed in and high charges, much more than a mere trade of each will do to negate an average bill.

A battery is almost needed for many households to really make a difference.

[Caban]

Hi @BridgetC ,

Firstly, I really do not know how your system operates and would need a lot more data to really work out what is going on in this case.

The thing is that AGL, or any other retailer, have very little control at this level. They get the data which comes from the meter which is operated by the wholesaler in your area. They are the people who maintain the poles and wires as well as reading your meter. In my case it is Essential Energy. If there is a serious discrepancy, then it's your wholesaler you should raise this matter. The retailer will refer to them too.

You should also keep in mind that those two readings you have supplied are measured at different points in the wiring. The Energy Analysis will come from your Energy Management System, which is connected to your Meter that is at the Input/Output location to your property. In my case there are other devices which are connected between these two items. These are loads which I have requested be wired in a manner to not take power from my battery but only from generated solar power or else the grid (these are How Water Booster and my Electric Oven)

You not having a battery would make this wiring on purpose unlikely, however in the confusion of wires in most switchboards strange things happen. It could be that a mistake has been made and some loads are being drawn between the management system and meters. This would then show as power export on one but not on the other. I am not saying this is happening, just a possibility. The advice to get the installer to check the system is worth taking.

Remember that Stuff Ups are way more common than Conspiracies.

[BridgetC]

I sent the info to the installer when I posted this, but will have to wait until after the weekend for a reply.

Definitely a battery is necessary, but the last of our savings went in to solar so a battery is a year or more away.

We'll need 20 kWh to guarantee that we'll be using nothing from the grid based on this summer, and maybe more assuming the panels and battery will lose efficiency over time.

[BridgetC]

The meter looks like it has a transmitter built in to it, so it sends data rather than needing a read.

Hopefully the solar installer can figure out what's going on.

[Caban]

@BridgetC 

The meter is read by the wholesaler, this is regardless of being a physical or digital reading. The Smart Meter information is immediately available to you, the retailer and the wholesaler.

20kwh is quite a high load. I am assuming there is a pool involved? Could that circuit be connected between the Management System and the Meter?

[BridgetC]

No pools, just a house

[Caban]

@BridgetC 

Not related to this issue, but what accounts for the load?

I have 4 x 1.9kW batteries and I can get a couple of nights out of them in  a normal house.

Cooking is LPG and HWS is solar.

[BridgetC]

We're all electric, no gas.  Outside of sunshine hours without AC we'd likely get away with 10 kWh.  In Brisbane it's not gone below 20 degrees overnight this yeah, so we've been running a lot of AC after hours and getting in to the teens in terms of buying from the grid each day.  So building in a buffer I figure 20 kWh would be needed so we're not running it flat regularly and not buying from the grid at all unless there's no sun for days.  Even on cloudy days I've been surprised at the generation.  We're perfectly oriented with no obstruction though, and it's all new.

Hopefully by the time we're needing to replace any panels they'll be even more efficient too.

[Caban]

@BridgetC 

It is important to not over capitalise on your batteries. Unless you really do not want any blackouts, the aim should be to make the best economical decision. Remember that if you go down the LIon route, they will last about as long as a family car before needing to be replaced (About 10-15 years) and they need to cover their costs before that.

I would look at them getting you through an "average" night and on high use nights, lasting until you can use Off Peak power. That way you will minimise your consumption with a cheaper outlay for batteries.

My own batteries cost a little more but are guaranteed for 20 years and should last about 50.